{"id":137,"date":"2005-11-20T23:01:38","date_gmt":"2005-11-21T04:01:38","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.tommangan.net\/twoheeldrive\/?p=137"},"modified":"2008-04-19T10:11:08","modified_gmt":"2008-04-19T18:11:08","slug":"back-in-the-hills-of-henry-coe","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.tommangan.net\/twoheeldrive\/index.php\/2005\/11\/20\/back-in-the-hills-of-henry-coe\/","title":{"rendered":"Back in the hills of Henry Coe"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Weather last week was wonderful, except when it was gorgeous. I checked the  San Jose forecast around Tuesday &#8212; blue skies and highs in the 70s through  the weekend triggered my inner Boy Scout, which made it impossible to think  of anything but a camp-out.<\/p>\n<p> There is an easy way to camp out, which is to drive the car to a campground,  pitch your tent, build a fire, toast some marshmallows, pop open a beer, soak  up the sound of birds in the trees and critters in the forest, retire to the  tent with its cot and pillows from home, and fall asleep serenaded by the sounds  of the night. <\/p>\n<p>The hard way is to cram as much as you can stand to carry into a backpack,  hike seven miles through dry creeks and canyons to your campsite, pitch your  tiny pup tent, twist and turn all night trying to get comfortable sleeping on  the ground, serenaded by the sounds of mammalian creatures trying to get into  your food supplies. <\/p>\n<p>As Mother Nature&#8217;s hostage, I chose the latter. <\/p>\n<p>Saturday morning, I drove as far as the headquarters of <a href=\"http:\/\/coepark.org\/\">Henry  Coe State Park<\/a>, which has some of the most brutal hill hikes in the region  but also has some of the most scenic, uh, scenery. From there it was about seven  miles or so to a remote notch in a hillside called Hidden Spring. <\/p>\n<p>The months since early June 2005 have mostly been a matter of resting up from  my last Henry Coe camp-out in preparation for my next one. The park is simply  spectacular in early spring, when the hills are green, the creeks are flowing  and the wildflowers are in bloom. I figured, yeah, well, sure it&#8217;ll all be brown  and blah but dammit, it&#8217;s the third weekend in November and it&#8217;s not raining,  so I&#8217;m hitting those trails one last time before the winter rains hit. <\/p>\n<p>I was pleasantly surprised to find an abundance of fall colors, and the usual  vistas of rugged hills and ridges. Henry Coe is all ridges &#8212; up them and down  them till to reach your campsite or pass out trying. <\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/tommangan.net\/archives\/images\/2005\/11-20-05-henrycoe\/1.jpg\" width=\"420\" height=\"315\" border=\"1\">  <\/p>\n<p>About 2.5 miles from the park headquarters, I hiked down a steep hillside on  the Soda Springs trail. The springs used to be a tourist destination many decades  ago; there&#8217;s nothing down there now but a creek, a broken-up old shack and some  kind of stone shelter. <\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/tommangan.net\/archives\/images\/2005\/11-20-05-henrycoe\/2.jpg\" width=\"420\" height=\"315\" border=\"1\">  <\/p>\n<p>Here&#8217;s the stone shelter. From here the trail zigzags across a creek for a  mile and comes out at China Hole, the prettiest spot in this section of the  park. Don&#8217;t try this route in the spring when the creek&#8217;s full of water, unless  you have an incurable urge to to hike with cold, wet feet for a mile. <\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/tommangan.net\/archives\/images\/2005\/11-20-05-henrycoe\/3.jpg\" width=\"420\" height=\"315\" border=\"1\">  <\/p>\n<p>One of the puddles at China Hole. This was all under water last spring when  I was here. <\/p>\n<p>The China Hole Trail continues up the ridge to the right near here. It&#8217;s about  two miles to my campsite from here. It&#8217;s pretty much all uphill, but only about  600 feet of elevation gain. A cakewalk by Henry Coe standards. <\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/tommangan.net\/archives\/images\/2005\/11-20-05-henrycoe\/4.jpg\" width=\"315\" height=\"420\" border=\"1\">  <\/p>\n<p>Caught the afternoon sun shining through some leaves. <\/p>\n<p>Found the turnoff to Lost Springs Trail, hiked down about six-tenths of a mile,  found my campsite &#8212; the privy even had toilet paper! <\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/tommangan.net\/archives\/images\/2005\/11-20-05-henrycoe\/5.jpg\" width=\"420\" height=\"259\" border=\"1\">  <\/p>\n<p>So I&#8217;ve got all my stuff set up by 1 p.m. Nothing to do but kick back and soak  up the sights and sounds. <\/p>\n<p>Oh, wait, where&#8217;s that Lost Spring? <\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/tommangan.net\/archives\/images\/2005\/11-20-05-henrycoe\/6.jpg\" width=\"420\" height=\"315\" border=\"1\">  <\/p>\n<p>Ah, found it. It&#8217;s about a four-minute walk further down the trail. It looked  perfectly clean and drinkable but I was a good Boy Scout and used my water filter.  <\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/tommangan.net\/archives\/images\/2005\/11-20-05-henrycoe\/7.jpg\" width=\"420\" height=\"315\" border=\"1\">  <\/p>\n<p>I took a little afternoon hike, capturing this image of the setting sun illuminating  a tree. <\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/tommangan.net\/archives\/images\/2005\/11-20-05-henrycoe\/8.jpg\" width=\"350\" height=\"299\" border=\"1\">  <\/p>\n<p>One leaf hasn&#8217;t gotten the &quot;it&#8217;s time to turn brown&quot; memo. <\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/tommangan.net\/archives\/images\/2005\/11-20-05-henrycoe\/9.jpg\" width=\"420\" height=\"315\" border=\"1\">  <\/p>\n<p>The required dead-tree picture. I saw so many examples of interesting live  trees that I didn&#8217;t trouble myself with shooting many dead ones this time. <\/p>\n<p>Those are the Day One pictorial highlights. A few other observations: <\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>I&#8217;m reading a movie review in the New Yorker (hey, it&#8217;s lightweight and  employs the world&#8217;s greatest writers; an excellent trail companion) and one  passage makes me laugh out loud. The sound of my voice is like a trumpet &#8212;  that&#8217;s how quiet it is out here. I hear voices a couple times and catch a  glimpse of somebody&#8217;s jacket on the trail; humanity-wise, I&#8217;ve got this hillside  all to myself. <\/li>\n<li>A breeze passes through the treetops and dozens of yellow leaves flutter  to the ground like the prelude to snowfall. I look down from my magazine awhile  later and one of the leaves has come to rest on my thigh. <\/li>\n<li>The hillside is coated with dry leaves, which crinkle every time an acorn  falls. Just beyond my range of vision I hear creatures moving about; probably  birds, squirrels, raccoons, etc. At one point I hear a massive rustle of leaves  &#8212; something big is moving across the hillside, like deer or coyotes, but  I see nothing. Friend or foe, I have no idea. But I know they&#8217;re out there.  <\/li>\n<li>I cook my dinner after sunset and dine in the dark. All the while I&#8217;m hearing  rustling in the leaves. I have one of those little lights that straps to the  forehead &#8212; the beam dies at about six feet out. Every time I shine it in  the direction of the noise, it stops. Whatever they are, they&#8217;re paying attention.  <\/li>\n<li>I turn in around 7 p.m., figuring this&#8217;ll give me about 12 hours to get  8 hours of sleep. After awhile I hear the distinct chattering of raccoons  in the general direction of the picnic table, where all my food is encased  in a hard plastic bearproof container. &quot;What kind of moron hauls these  things to a place with no bears?&quot; they mutter between curses. Answer:  a moron who wants to keep the rats, mice and lesser omnivores out of his breakfast.  (Most folks keep their chow in a bag hanging from a tree branch, but I&#8217;m getting  in practice for camping in the Sierra, where anti-bear boxes are required.)  <\/li>\n<li>Early in the morning, around 5 a.m., I hear a shrieking sound, either a  bird or a coyote, and the sound of something large moving near the tent. I&#8217;m  buried so deep in my mummy sleeping bag that I can&#8217;t get turned around to  take a look until it&#8217;s gone. I&#8217;m guessing it was a coyote, because I&#8217;ve heard  birds shout out warnings when the wild canines were lurking about. <\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Day Two: back to headquarters. <\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/tommangan.net\/archives\/images\/2005\/11-20-05-henrycoe\/10.jpg\" width=\"350\" height=\"420\" border=\"1\">  <\/p>\n<p>Warm sun feels good after waking up to temperatures in the 40s. <\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/tommangan.net\/archives\/images\/2005\/11-20-05-henrycoe\/11.jpg\" width=\"420\" height=\"352\" border=\"1\">  <\/p>\n<p>I hike down to a site called Los Cruzeros. From here there&#8217;s a rock scramble  called the Narrows that loops back to China Hole. <\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/tommangan.net\/archives\/images\/2005\/11-20-05-henrycoe\/12.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"298\" border=\"1\">  <\/p>\n<p>One critter never made it home. <\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/tommangan.net\/archives\/images\/2005\/11-20-05-henrycoe\/13.jpg\" width=\"420\" height=\"315\" border=\"1\">  <\/p>\n<p>Most of the pools have a thin sheen of ice. This canyon fills with rainwater  in the spring, making for a very wet, rocky journey for all who venture out  this way. <\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/tommangan.net\/archives\/images\/2005\/11-20-05-henrycoe\/14.jpg\" width=\"347\" height=\"420\" border=\"1\">  <\/p>\n<p>Back at China Hole, the ice has melted. Four guy were camping near here; they  looked <i>really<\/i> cold. I was fortunate to be moving and carrying about 25  pounds in my pack, so I was plenty warm. But the water in my bottle was fresh-from-the-fridge  cold. <\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/tommangan.net\/archives\/images\/2005\/11-20-05-henrycoe\/15.jpg\" width=\"420\" height=\"232\" border=\"1\">  <\/p>\n<p>From China Hole it&#8217;s five miles, uphill all the way, back to the park HQ. This  shot looks out into the park from the Corral Trail near the HQ. Henry Coe is  a vast place; it stretches to the far peaks in this picture and beyond. It&#8217;s  easy to see why some folks become so enchanted with the place. It&#8217;s pure wilderness  about an hour from San Jose. The zones nearest the park entrances have springs,  ponds and privies to ease the adjustment to the wilds. <\/p>\n<p>If you&#8217;re thinking of hiking at Henry Coe, here&#8217;s the best advice I can think  of: Stay off the dirt roads and stick to the single-track trails. The roads  were built for motor vehicles and are too steep for puny people moving under  muscle power. The trails were built with hikers in mind, and the worst of them  are only half as bad as the roads. <\/p>\n<p>Also, worry about water: The creeks fill up in early spring, making many passages  precarious; then they dry up in the summer, taking away a prime water source.  But the park has lots of natural springs that flow all year; you just need to  know where they are, and how much water they have in them. The rangers at the  park HQ can fill you in. I&#8217;ve hiked the meanest, steepest road in the park at  the height of summer &#8212; even with plenty of water, I don&#8217;t recommend it. <\/p>\n<p>But I highly recommend Henry Coe. Just be a good Boy Scout and be prepared.  <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Weather last week was wonderful, except when it was gorgeous. I checked the San Jose forecast around Tuesday &#8212; blue skies and highs in the 70s through the weekend triggered my inner Boy Scout, which made it impossible to think&hellip;<\/p>\n<p class=\"more-link-p\"><a class=\"more-link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.tommangan.net\/twoheeldrive\/index.php\/2005\/11\/20\/back-in-the-hills-of-henry-coe\/\">Read the whole thing<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0},"categories":[25],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.tommangan.net\/twoheeldrive\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/137"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.tommangan.net\/twoheeldrive\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.tommangan.net\/twoheeldrive\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.tommangan.net\/twoheeldrive\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.tommangan.net\/twoheeldrive\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=137"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.tommangan.net\/twoheeldrive\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/137\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.tommangan.net\/twoheeldrive\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=137"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.tommangan.net\/twoheeldrive\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=137"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.tommangan.net\/twoheeldrive\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=137"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}